The Inside Scoop of Product Pricing at Farmers' Markets

by Madison Whitley and Juliann Zoetmulder

Ever wonder why farmers’ market eggs cost $4 a dozen? Are you curious about why meat and produce cost double what it costs in the grocery store? These are valid questions that are on many customers’ minds as they shop the farmers’ market. With a little explanation, you may come to find that what you get for your money is really worth it.

Comparing farm fresh eggs and industrial big-box eggs is not an apples-to-apples comparison. You have to lift the veil a bit to understand what you miss from industrial, “cheap” eggs. You may pay more for farm fresh eggs; however, you get more value for the price. In a 2007 testing project, Mother Earth News compared farm fresh eggs taken from hens raised on a pasture to the nutritional data designated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) for commercially produced eggs. In this test, it was found that the farm fresh eggs contain one-third less cholesterol, one-quarter less saturated fat and two times more omega-3 fatty acids. Furthermore, the farm fresh egg contains two-thirds more vitamin A and three times more vitamin E. Beta carotene, an immune booster, is found in seven times greater proportion than the egg off the big-box store shelf. In general, the eggs from hens that roam around a pasture are richer in nutrients than typical supermarket eggs.

Even if the science does not “wow” you, look at the deep orange color of the farm fresh egg and taste its creaminess compared to an industrial egg. It tastes better and is more nutrient dense. For $2 extra dollars per dozen, you get exponentially more health and taste benefits. That’s sixteen cents more per egg or thirty-three cents more for your 2 egg breakfast that will sustain your body much longer than an industrial egg.

Despite these known benefits, customers are still hesitant to purchase their weekly grocery list at the farmers’ market because prices cannot compete with the low prices found at the grocery store. So why is the food at the farmers’ market more expensive? In actuality, it is the cheapest and healthiest food available. Sustainable agriculture does not rely on government subsidies from the Farm Bill and it does not have the huge environmental costs (transportation, for example) that industrial agriculture incurs. Finally, sustainable agriculture is not laden with chemicals, antibiotics, pesticides, and GMO’s. On the flip side, think about what we would be adding to our future health care bill by eating cheap meat, for instance.

Grass-fed beef has a number of compelling health benefits and since America is eating more meat than ever, we need to pay attention. According to a 2009 study by the USDA and Clemson University in South Carolina, grass-fed beef, often sold at farmers’ markets, is lower in total fat, saturated fat and calories compared to commercially produced beef. Grass-fed beef has higher amounts of total omega-3 fatty acids and a better ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids. Grass-fed beef also has higher vitamin A and E (alpha-tocopherol), higher levels of antioxidants, 7 times more beta-carotene, higher amounts of B-vitamins thiamin and riboflavin, and higher amounts of minerals calcium, magnesium and potassium. The research also indicates higher levels of CLA (cis-9-trans-11), a potential cancer fighter, in grass-fed beef and higher amounts of vaccenic acid (which can be transformed into CLA). Don’t forget that animals raised on small family farms are often treated more humanely than animals in commercial production facilities.

The nutrient density of products found at the farmers’ market is much higher, producing a much healthier product, which means that you don’t have to eat as much to get the same health benefits. So next time you are at the farmers’ market, don’t think about how expensive the products are and how much money you could save at the grocery store. Think about the quality of product you are getting, how many more nutrients are present in the food and what you are getting for you money.

As someone who has a monthly budget for food, I suggest purchasing the items that are at the front-and-center of your meal at the farmers’ market. You can always supplement your grocery list with items at the big-box grocery store. You will notice a difference in the taste and quality of your food, but not in your wallet. I promise.

Coffee-Glazed Doughnuts

Ingredients

For doughnuts

• 1 (1/4-oz) package active dry yeast (2 1/2 teaspoons)
• 2 tablespoons warm water (105–115°F)
• 3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour plus additional for sprinkling and rolling out dough
• 1 cup whole milk at room temperature
• 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
• 3 large egg yolks
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• About 10 cups vegetable oil for deep frying

For glaze

• 1/4 cup boiling-hot water
• 5 teaspoons instant-espresso powder or instant-coffee granules
• 1 1/2 cups confectioners sugar
• 1 tablespoon light corn syrup
• 1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• About 1/4 cup sanding sugar (optional)

• Special equipment: a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment; a 3-inch and a 1-inch round cookie cutter; a deep-fat thermometer

Preparation

Make dough:
Stir together yeast and warm water in a small bowl until yeast is dissolved. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. (If yeast doesn't foam, discard and start over with new yeast.)

Mix together flour, milk, butter, yolks, sugar, salt, cinnamon, and yeast mixture in mixer at low speed until a soft dough forms. Increase speed to medium-high and beat 3 minutes more.

Scrape dough down side of bowl (all around) into center, then sprinkle lightly with flour (to keep a crust from forming). Cover bowl with a clean kitchen towel (not terry cloth) and let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled in bulk, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. (Alternatively, let dough rise in bowl in refrigerator 8 to 12 hours.)

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and roll out with a lightly floured rolling pin into a 12-inch round (1/2 inch thick). Cut out as many rounds as possible with 3-inch cutter, then cut a hole in center of each round with 1-inch cutter and transfer doughnuts to a lightly floured large baking sheet. Cover doughnuts with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until slightly puffed, about 30 minutes (45 minutes if dough was cold when cutting out doughnuts). Do not reroll scraps.

Heat 2 1/2 inches oil in a deep 4-quart heavy pot until it registers 350°F on thermometer. Fry doughnuts, 2 at a time, turning occasionally with a wire or mesh skimmer or a slotted spoon, until puffed and golden brown, about 2 minutes per batch. Transfer to paper towels to drain. (Return oil to 350°F between batches.)

Make glaze:
Stir together boiling-hot water and espresso powder in a medium bowl until powder is dissolved, then stir in confectioners sugar, corn syrup, vanilla, and salt until smooth.

Dip doughnuts into glaze, turning to coat well, then put on a rack set in a shallow baking pan (to catch any drips). While glaze is wet, sprinkle doughnuts with sanding sugar (if using). Let stand until glaze is set, about 20 minutes.

Salted Cod in Tomato Garlic Confit

Ingredients

• 1 pound center-cut skinless boneless salt cod (bacalao), rinsed well and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
• 8 large garlic cloves, peeled
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 (14-ounce) cans diced tomatoes, drained
• 1/4 teaspoon sugar
• 6 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1/4 cup crème fraîche
• 1 tablespoon water

Preparation

Soak and poach cod:
Cover cod with 2 inches of cold water in a large bowl and soak, chilled, changing water 3 times a day, up to 3 days (see cooks' note, below).

Drain cod and transfer to a 3-quart saucepan, then add 6 cups water. Bring just to a simmer and remove from heat. (Cod will just begin to flake; do not boil or it will become tough.) Gently transfer cod with a slotted spatula to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Cover with a dampened paper towel and chill while making confit.

Make confit and cook fish:
Cook garlic in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately low heat, turning occasionally, until golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Add tomatoes and sugar and cook, stirring frequently, until tomatoes break down into a very thick sauce and oil separates, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Mash garlic cloves into sauce and add salt and pepper to taste. Spread sauce in a 3-quart gratin dish or other flameproof shallow baking dish and arrange fish over sauce.

Preheat broiler.

Whisk together mayonnaise, crème fraîche, and water and spread over each piece of fish. Broil fish 5 to 6 inches from heat just until mayonnaise mixture is lightly browned, about 2 minutes.

Sausage and Lentils with Fennel

Ingredients

• 1 cup dried lentils (preferably French green lentils; 7 ounces)
• 4 1/2 cups cold water
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1 medium (3/4-pound) fennel bulb (sometimes labeled "anise"), stalks discarded, reserving fronds
• 3 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 carrot, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
• 1 1/4 pounds sweet Italian sausage links
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar, or to taste
• Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

Preparation

Bring lentils, water, and 1/2 teaspoon salt to a boil in a 2-quart heavy saucepan, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until lentils are just tender but not falling apart, 12 to 25 minutes.

While lentils simmer, cut fennel bulb into 1/4-inch dice and chop enough fennel fronds to measure 2 tablespoons. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a 3- to 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then stir in onion, carrot, fennel bulb, fennel seeds, and remaining teaspoon salt. Cover pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are very tender, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, lightly prick sausages in a couple of places with tip of a sharp knife, then cook sausages in remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until golden brown and cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board.

Drain cooked lentils in a sieve set over a bowl and reserve cooking water. Stir lentils into vegetables with enough cooking water to moisten (1/4 to 1/2 cup) and cook over moderate heat until heated through. Stir in parsley, pepper, 1 tablespoon vinegar, and 1 tablespoon fennel fronds. Season with vinegar and salt.

Cut sausages diagonally into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Serve lentils topped with sausage and sprinkled with remaining tablespoon fennel fronds. Drizzle all over with extra-virgin olive oil.

Brown-Butter Creamed Winter Greens

Ingredients

• 3/4 stick unsalted butter, divided
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 cups whole milk
• 2 tablespoons minced shallot
• 1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf
• 6 black peppercorns
• 3 1/2 pounds mixed winter greens such as collards, mustard greens, and kale
• 6 ounces slab bacon, any rind discarded and bacon cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch sticks (lardons)
• 1 cup finely chopped onion
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar, or to taste

Preparation

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, then add flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

Add milk in a stream, whisking, then add shallot, bay leaf, and peppercorns and bring to a boil, whisking. Simmer, whisking occasionally, 5 minutes. Strain béchamel sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding solids, and cover surface with parchment paper.

Discard stems and center ribs from greens, then coarsely chop leaves.

Cook lardons in a wide 6- to 8-quart heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown but not crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain, then pour off fat from pot and wipe clean.

Heat remaining 1/2 stick butter in pot over medium-low heat until browned and fragrant, about 2 minutes, then cook onion, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes.

Increase heat to medium-high, then stir in greens, 1 handful at a time, letting each handful wilt before adding next. Add béchamel, cream, garlic, red-pepper flakes, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and boil, uncovered, stirring, until sauce coats greens and greens are tender, about 10 minutes.

Stir in lardons, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste.

Horseradish-Crusted Steak Roulade

Directions

For the Steak:

Ingredients

• 2 red bell peppers, stemmed, halved lengthwise and seeded
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 leek, white and light-green parts only, finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 cup chopped fresh parsley
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 2 1/4-to-2 1/2-pound flank steak, trimmed
• 1/2 pound sliced provolone cheese (about 8 slices)

For the Crust:

• 3/4 cup breadcrumbs
• 3 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 3 tablespoons drained horseradish
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Prepare the stuffing for the steak: Preheat the broiler and place the peppers cut-side down on a foil-lined broiler pan. Broil until the skin is charred, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover with a plate and set aside until cool enough to handle. Peel the peppers with your fingers or a paring knife. If necessary, lightly rinse to remove any remaining skin and pat dry.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leek and garlic and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Let cool.

Gently pound the steak with the flat side of a mallet or heavy skillet until 1/4 inch thick. Lay out on a cutting board with the long side facing you and season with salt and pepper. Place the roasted peppers evenly over the meat, leaving a 1-inch border all around. Top with the cheese slices, then the leek mixture. Roll the meat away from you into a tight cylinder, tucking in the filling as you roll.

Make the crust: Mix the breadcrumbs, rosemary, parsley, horseradish, olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste in a medium bowl until moistened. Brush the steak roll with a bit of olive oil and press the breadcrumb mixture over the top and sides. Tie the roll with twine in three or four places, making sure it's not too tight (you want the crust to stay intact).

Place the steak roll on a rack in a roasting pan and roast until the crust is golden and a thermometer inserted into the center registers 130 degrees for medium-rare, about 45 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 15 minutes. Carefully cut off the twine, then slice the roll crosswise into 1-inch pieces.

Hearty Winter Green Saute

Ingredients

• 1 bunch mustard greens, cleaned
• 1 bunch turnip greens, cleaned
• 1 bunch kale, cleaned
• 1 bunch Swiss chard, cleaned
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 1/2 cups chicken broth

Directions

Remove the center stems from all the greens and slice the leaves into 1/2-inch ribbons. Pour the olive oil into a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. Once hot, add the onion and garlic and saute until tender and fragrant, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Stir in the ribbons of mustard greens, turnip greens and kale in batches, adding the next batch as the one prior wilts down. Once those three greens are added to the pot, pour in the broth and cook 15 minutes. Then add the ribbons of Swiss chard and cover with a lid. Let simmer 5 more minutes. Taste for seasoning. Spoon the greens into a large serving dish.

Balsamic Root Vegetables

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes
• 1 pound parsnips
• 1 pound carrots
• 2 large red onions, coarsely chopped
• 3/4 cup sweetened dried cranberries
• 1 tablespoon light brown sugar
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 1/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Preparation

1. Peel first 3 ingredients, and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces. Combine parsnips, carrots, onions, and cranberries in a lightly greased 6-qt. slow cooker; layer sweet potatoes over top.
2. Whisk together sugar and next 4 ingredients in a small bowl; pour over vegetable mixture. (Do not stir.)
3. Cover and cook on HIGH 4 to 5 hours or until vegetables are tender. Toss with parsley just before serving.